Bali
is an Indonesian island located in the westernmost end of the Lesser
Sunda Islands, lying between Java to the west and Lombok to the east. It
is one of the country's 33 provinces with the provincial capital at
Denpasar towards the south of the island (strictly speaking, the
province covers a few small neighbouring islands as well as the isle of
Bali).
With a population recorded as 3,891,000 in the 2010 Census,
the island is home to most of Indonesia's small Hindu minority. In the
2000 census about 92.29% of Bali's population adhered to Balinese
Hinduism while most of the remainder follow Islam. It is also the
largest tourist destination in the country and is renowned for its
highly developed arts, including traditional and modern dance,
sculpture, painting, leather, metalworking, and music. Bali, a tourist
haven for decades, has seen a further surge in tourist numbers in recent
years.
The island of Bali lies 3.2 km (2 mi) east of Java, and is
approximately 8 degrees south of the equator. Bali and Java are
separated by the Bali Strait. East to west, the island is approximately
153 km (95 mi) wide and spans approximately 112 km (69 mi) north to
south; its land area is 5,632 km².
Bali's central mountains
include several peaks over 3,000 metres in elevation. The highest is
Mount Agung (3,142 m), known as the "mother mountain" which is an active
volcano. Mountains range from centre to the eastern side, with Mount
Agung the easternmost peak. Bali's volcanic nature has contributed to
its exceptional fertility and its tall mountain ranges provide the high
rainfall that supports the highly productive agriculture sector. South
of the mountains is a broad, steadily descending area where most of
Bali's large rice crop is grown. The northern side of the mountains
slopes more steeply to the sea and is the main coffee producing area of
the island, along with rice, vegetables and cattle. The longest river,
Ayung River, flows approximately 75 km.
The island is surrounded
by coral reefs. Beaches in the south tend to have white sand while those
in the north and west have black sand. Bali has no major waterways,
although the Ho River is navigable by small sampan boats. Black sand
beaches between Pasut and Klatingdukuh are being developed for tourism,
but apart from the seaside temple of Tanah Lot, they are not yet used
for significant tourism.
The largest city is the provincial
capital, Denpasar, near the southern coast. Its population is around
491,500(2002). Bali's second-largest city is the old colonial capital,
Singaraja, which is located on the north coast and is home to around
100,000 people. Other important cities include the beach resort, Kuta,
which is practically part of Denpasar's urban area; and Ubud, which is
north of Denpasar, and is known as the island's cultural centre.
Three
small islands lie to the immediate south east and all are
administratively part of the Klungkung regency of Bali: Nusa Penida,
Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan. These islands are separated from Bali
by the Badung Strait.
To the east, the Lombok Strait separates
Bali from Lombok and marks the biogeographical division between the
fauna of the Indomalayan ecozone and the distinctly different fauna of
Australasia. The transition is known as the Wallace Line, named after
Alfred Russel Wallace, who first proposed a transition zone between
these two major biomes. When sea levels dropped during the Pleistocene
ice age, Bali was connected to Java and Sumatra and to the mainland of
Asia and shared the Asian fauna, but the deep water of the Lombok Strait
continued to keep Lombok and the Lesser Sunda archipelago isolated.
[edit] Ecology
The Bali Starling is found only on Bali and is critically endangered.
Bali
lies just to the west of the Wallace Line, and thus has a fauna which
is Asian in character, with very little Australasian influence, and has
more in common with Java than with Lombok. An exception is the
Yellow-crested Cockatoo, a member of a primarily Australasian family.
There are around 280 species of birds, including the critically
endangered Bali Starling, which is endemic. Others Include Barn Swallow,
Black-naped Oriole, Black Racket-tailed Treepie, Crested Serpent-eagle,
Crested Treeswift, Dollarbird, Java Sparrow, Lesser Adjutant,
Long-tailed Shrike, Milky Stork, Pacific Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow,
Sacred Kingfisher, Sea Eagle, Woodswallow, Savanna Nightjar,
Stork-billed Kingfisher, Yellow-vented Bulbul, White Heron, Great Egret.
Until
the early 20th century, Bali was home to several large mammals: the
wild Banteng, Leopard and an endemic subspecies of Tiger, the Bali
Tiger. The Banteng still occurs in its domestic form, while leopards are
found only in neighboring Java, and the Bali Tiger is extinct. The last
definite record of a Tiger on Bali dates from 1937, when one was shot,
though the subspecies may have survived until the 1940s or 1950s.[15]
The relatively small size of the island, conflict with humans, poaching
and habitat reduction drove the Tiger to extinction. This was the
smallest and rarest of all Tiger subspecies and was never caught on film
or displayed in zoos, while few skins or bones remain in museums around
the world. Today, the largest mammals are the Javan Rusa deer and the
Wild Boar. A second, smaller species of deer, the Indian Muntjac, also
occurs.
Monkey Forest, Ubud.
Squirrels are quite commonly
encountered, less often the Asian Palm Civet, which is also kept in
coffee farms to produce Kopi Luwak. Bats are well represented, perhaps
the most famous place to encounter them remaining the Goa Lawah (Temple
of the Bats) where they are worshipped by the locals and also constitute
a tourist attraction. They also occur in other cave temples, for
instance at Gangga Beach. Two species of monkey occur. The Crab-eating
Macaque, known locally as “kera”, is quite common around human
settlements and temples, where it becomes accustomed to being fed by
humans, particularly in any of the three “monkey forest” temples, such
as the popular one in the Ubud area. They are also quite often kept as
pets by locals. The second monkey, endemic to Java and some surrounding
islands, such as Bali which is far rarer and more elusive is the Javan
Langur or the Black-leaf Monkey, locally known as "lutung". They occur
in few places apart from the Bali Barat National Park. What is
interesting about this species is that the young are born an orange
colour, though by their first year they would have already changed to a
more blackish colouration. In Java however, there is more of a tendency
for this species to retain its juvenile orange colour into adulthood,
and so you can see a miixture of black and orange monkeys together as a
family. In Other, rarer mammals include the Leopard Cat, Sunda Pangolin
and Black Giant Squirrel.
Snakes include the King Cobra and
Reticulated Python. The Water Monitor can grow to an impressive size and
move surprisingly quickly.
The rich coral reefs around the
coast, particularly around popular diving spots such as Tulamben, Amed,
Menjangan or neighboring Nusa Penida, host a wide range of marine life,
for instance Hawksbill Turtle, Giant Sunfish, Giant Manta Ray, Giant
Moray Eel, Bumphead Parrotfish, Hammerhead Shark, Reef Shark, barracuda,
and sea snakes. Dolphins are commonly encountered on the north coast
near Singaraja and Lovina.
Many plants have been introduced by
humans within the last centuries, particularly since the 20th century,
making it sometimes hard to distinguish what plants are really native.
Among the larger trees the most common are: Banyan trees, Jackfruit,
coconuts, bamboo species, acacia trees and also endless rows of coconuts
and banana species. Numerous flowers can be seen: hibiscus, frangipani,
bougainvillea, poinsettia, oleander, jasmine, water lily, lotus, roses,
begonias, orchids and hydrangeas exist. On higher grounds that receive
more moisture, for instance around Kintamani, certain species of fern
trees, mushrooms and even pine trees thrive well. Rice comes in many
varieties. Other plants with agricultural value include: salak,
mangosteen, corn, Kintamani orange, coffee and water spinach.
A
team of scientists has conducted survey from April 29, 2011 to May 11,
2011 at 33 sea site of Bali. They have discovered 952 species of reef
fish which 8 of them were new discoveries at Pemuteran, Gilimanuk, Nusa
Dua, Tulamben and Candidasa and 393 coral species, including two new
ones at Padangbai and between Padangbai and Amed.[16] The average
coverage level of healthy coral was 36 percent (better than in Raja
Ampat and Halmahera by 29 percent or in Fakfak and Kaimana by 25
percent) with the highest coverage was found in Gili Selang and Gili
Mimpang in Candidasa, Karangasem regency.
Some of the worst erosion
has occurred in Lebih Beach, where up to 7 meters of land is lost every
year. Decades ago, this beach was used for holy pilgrimages with more
than 10,000 people, but they have now moved to Masceti Beach.[18]
From
ranked third in previous review, in 2010 Bali got score 99.65 of
Indonesia's environmental quality index and the highest of all the 33
provinces. The score measured 3 water quality parameters: the level of
total suspended solids (TSS), dissolved oxygen (DO) and chemical oxygen
demand (COD).[19]
Due to over-exploitation by the tourist
industry which converse massive land, 200 out of 400 rivers on the
island have dried up and based on research, the southern part of bali
would face a water shortage up to 2,500 liters of clean water per second
by 2015.[20] To ease the shortage, the central government plans to
build a water catchment and processing facility at Petanu River in
Gianyar. The 300 liters capacity of water per second will be channeled
to Denpasar, Badung and Gianyar in 2013.
The tourism industry is
primarily focused in the south, while significant in the other parts of
the island as well. The main tourist locations are the town of Kuta
(with its beach), and its outer suburbs of Legian and Seminyak (which
were once independent townships), the east coast town of Sanur (once the
only tourist hub), in the center of the island Ubud, to the south of
the Ngurah Rai International Airport, Jimbaran, and the newer
development of Nusa Dua and Pecatu.
The American government
lifted its travel warnings in 2008. As of 2009, the Australian
government still rates it at a 4 danger level (the same as several
countries in central Africa) on a scale of 5.
An offshoot of
tourism is the growing real estate industry. Bali real estate has been
rapidly developing in the main tourist areas of Kuta, Legian, Seminyak
and Oberoi. Most recently, high-end 5 star projects are under
development on the Bukit peninsula, on the south side of the island.
Million dollar villas are being developed along the cliff sides of south
Bali, commanding panoramic ocean views. Foreign and domestic (many
Jakarta individuals and companies are fairly active) investment into
other areas of the island also continues to grow. Land prices, despite
the worldwide economic crisis, have remained stable.
In the last
half of 2008, Indonesia's currency had dropped approximately 30% against
the US dollar, providing many overseas visitors value for their
currencies. Visitor arrivals for 2009 were forecast to drop 8% (which
would be higher than 2007 levels), due to the worldwide economic crisis
which has also affected the global tourist industry, but not due to any
travel warnings.
Bali's tourism economy survived the terrorist
bombings of 2002 and 2005, and the tourism industry has in fact slowly
recovered and surpassed its pre-terrorist bombing levels; the longterm
trend has been a steady increase of visitor arrivals. At 2010, Bali
received 2.57 million foreign tourists. It is surpassed the target of
2.0-2.3 million tourists. The average occupancy of starred hotels
achieved 65 percent (last year 60.8 percent), so still capable for
accommodates tourists for next some years without any addition of new
rooms/hotels,[27] although at the peak season some of them are fully
booked.
Bali received the Best Island award from Travel and
Leisure in 2010. The award was presented in the show "World's Best
Awards 2010" in New York, on 21 July. Hotel Four Seasons Resort Bali at
Jimbaran also received an award in the category of "World Best Hotel
Spas in Asia 2010". The award was based on a survey of travel magazine
Travel + Leisure readers between 15 December 2009 through 31 March 2010,
and was judged on several criteria. Thermes Marins Bali, Ayana Resort
and Spa, (formerly The Ritz-Carlton) got score 95.6 scored out of a
maximum 100 of satisfaction index with spa facilities and services as #1
Spa in the world by Conde Naste's Traveller Magazine for 2010 by their
readers poll.[28] The island of Bali won because of its attractive
surroundings (both mountain and coastal areas), diverse tourist
attractions, excellent international and local restaurants, and the
friendliness of the local people.
On August 2010, the film
version of Eat, Pray, Love (EPL), which starred Julia Roberts, was
released in theaters. The movie was based on Elizabeth Gilbert's
best-selling memoir of the same name. It took place at Ubud and
Padang-Padang Beach at Bali. The 2006 book, which spent 57 weeks at the
No. 1 spot on the New York Times paperback nonfiction best-seller list,
has already fueled a boom in EPL tourism in Ubud, the hill town and
cultural and tourist center that was the focus of Gilbert's quest for
balance through traditional spirituality and healing that leads to
love.[29] Newly launched packages by luxury resorts and spas like Ubud
Hanging Gardens and the cliff-top Ayana promise to recreate Gilbert's
four transformative months on Bali in a few passing days with yoga
classes, drawn-out beach dinners, massage therapy. Other tours built
around the book focus on curative group gatherings and self-discovery of
the kind Gilbert had.[30] EPL helped boost Bali’s tourist numbers,
together with the stable security situation on the island. Bali had 2.5
million visitors in 2010, exceeding their target of 2.3 million. That
figure was also an improvement from 2009’s 2.2 million and 2008’s 1.96
million visitors.[31] The Tourism Office admitted that they had done
nothing to maximize the opportunity to promote Bali and surrender to the
filmmakers to promote
The Ngurah Rai International Airport is
located near Jimbaran, on the isthmus at the southernmost part of the
island. Lt.Col. Wisnu Airfield is found in north-west Bali.
A
coastal road surrounds the island, and three major two-lane arteries
cross the central mountains at passes reaching to 1,750m in height (at
Penelokan). The Ngurah Rai Bypass is a four-lane expressway that partly
encircles Denpasar and enables cars to travel quickly in the heavily
populated south. Bali has no railway lines.
December 2010:
Government of Indonesia has invited investors to build Tanah Ampo Cruise
Terminal at Karangasem, Bali amounted $30 million.[33] In July 17, 2011
the first cruise ship (Sun Princess) will anchor about 400 meters away
from the wharf of Tanah Ampo harbor. The current pier is only 154 meters
and will be a 300 to 350 meters to accommodate international cruise
ships. The harbor would be safer than Benoa and has a scenic backdrop of
a panoramic view of mountainous area with green rice fields.[34]
A
Memorandum of Understanding has been signed by 2 ministers, Bali's
Governor and Indonesian Train Company to build 565 kilometers railway
along the coast around the island. It will be operated from 2015
onwards.[35]
Seven state-owned enterprises led by PT Jasa Marga
with 60 percent of shares was named PT Jasa Marga Bali Tol will
construct the 9.91 kilometers Serangan-Tanjung Benoa toll road. The
construction is projected to cost Rp.2.3 trillion ($2.6 billion) and is
expected to be finished by April 2013 before Apec Summit. The project
will through 2 kilometers mangrove forest and through 2.3 kilometer
beach, both in 5.4 hectares area. Elevated toll road will be built over
the mangrove forest.[36][37] On March 16, 2011 (Tanjung) Benoa port has
received a "Best Port Welcome 2010" award from London's "Dream World
Cruise Destination" magazine.[38] Government plans to expand the role of
Benoa port as export-import port to boost Bali's trade and industry
sector.[39]
To solve chronic traffic problems, the province will
build a toll road connecting Serangan with Tohpati, a toll road
connecting Kuta, Denpasar and Tohpati and a flyover connecting Kuta and
Ngurah Rai Airport.[40]
On May 2011, an integrated Areal Traffic
Control System (ATCS) was implemented to reduce traffic jams at 4
crossing points, i.e.: Ngurah Rai statue, Dewa Ruci Kuta crossing,
Jimbaran crossing and Sanur crossing. ATCS is an integrated system
connecting all traffic lights, CCTVs and other traffic signals with a
monitoring office at the police headquarters. It has successfully been
implemented in other ASEAN countries and will be implemented at other
crossings in Bali.
Unlike most of Muslim-majority Indonesia, about
93.18% of Bali's population adheres to Balinese Hinduism, formed as a
combination of existing local beliefs and Hindu influences from mainland
Southeast Asia and South Asia. Minority religions include Islam
(4.79%), Christianity (1.38%), and Buddhism (0.64%). These figures do
not include immigrants from other parts of Indonesia.
When Islam
surpassed Hinduism in Java (16th century), Bali became a refuge for many
Hindus. Balinese Hinduism is an amalgam in which gods and demigods are
worshipped together with Buddhist heroes, the spirits of ancestors,
indigenous agricultural deities and sacred places. Religion as it is
practiced in Bali is a composite belief system that embraces not only
theology, philosophy, and mythology, but ancestor worship, animism and
magic. It pervades nearly every aspect of traditional life. Caste is
observed, though less strictly than in India. With an estimated 20,000
puras (temples) and shrines, Bali is known as the "Island of a Thousand
Puras", or "Island of the Gods".[44]
Balinese Hinduism has roots
in Indian Hinduism and in Buddhism, and adopted the animistic traditions
of the indigenous people. This influence strengthened the belief that
the gods and goddesses are present in all things. Every element of
nature, therefore, possesses its own power, which reflects the power of
the gods. A rock, tree, dagger, or woven cloth is a potential home for
spirits whose energy can be directed for good or evil. Balinese Hinduism
is deeply interwoven with art and ritual. Ritualizing states of
self-control are a notable feature of religious expression among the
people, who for this reason have become famous for their graceful and
decorous behavior.[45]
Apart from the majority of Balinese
Hindus, there also exist Chinese immigrants whose traditions have melded
with that of the locals. As a result, these Sino-Balinese not only
embrace their original religion, which is a mixture of Buddhism,
Christianity, Taoism and Confucianism, but also find a way to harmonize
it with the local traditions. Hence, it is not uncommon to find local
Sino-Balinese during the local temple's odalan. Moreover, Balinese Hindu
priests are invited to perform rites alongside a Chinese priest in the
event of the death of a Sino-Balinese.[46] Nevertheless, the
Sino-Balinese claim to embrace Buddhism for administrative purposes,
such as their Identity Cards.
Balinese and Indonesian are the most
widely spoken languages in Bali, and the vast majority of Balinese
people are bilingual or trilingual. There are several indigenous
Balinese languages, but most Balinese can also use the most widely
spoken option: modern common Balinese. The usage of different Balinese
languages was traditionally determined by the Balinese caste system and
by clan membership, but this tradition is diminishing. Sanskrit is also
commonly used by some Hindu priests in Bali, for Hinduism literature was
mostly written in Sanskrit.
English is a common third language
(and the primary foreign language) of many Balinese, owing to the
requirements of the tourism industry. Other foreign languages, such as
Chinese, Japanese, Korean, French, German or Hindi are often used in
multilingual signs for foreign tourists.
Bali is renowned for its
diverse and sophisticated art forms, such as painting, sculpture,
woodcarving, handcrafts, and performing arts. Balinese percussion
orchestra music, known as gamelan, is highly developed and varied.
Balinese performing arts often portray stories from Hindu epics such as
the Ramayana but with heavy Balinese influence. Famous Balinese dances
include pendet, legong, baris, topeng, barong, gong keybar, and kecak
(the monkey dance). Bali boasts one of the most diverse and innovative
performing arts cultures in the world, with paid performances at
thousands of temple festivals, private ceremonies, or public shows.[48]
The
Hindu New Year, Nyepi, is celebrated in the spring by a day of silence.
On this day everyone stays at home and tourists are encouraged to
remain in their hotels. But the day before that large, colourful
sculptures of ogoh-ogoh monsters are paraded and finally burned in the
evening to drive away evil spirits. Other festivals throughout the year
are specified by the Balinese pawukon calendrical system.
Balinese dancers wearing elaborate headgear, photographed in 1929. Digitally restored.
Celebrations
are held for many occasions such as a tooth-filing (coming-of-age
ritual), cremation or odalan (temple festival). One of the most
important concepts that Balinese ceremonies have in common is that of
désa kala patra, which refers to how ritual performances must be
appropriate in both the specific and general social context.[49] Many of
the ceremonial art forms such as wayang kulit and topeng are highly
improvisatory, providing flexibility for the performer to adapt the
performance to the current situation.[50] Many celebrations call for a
loud, boisterous atmosphere with lots of activity and the resulting
aesthetic, ramé, is distinctively Balinese. Oftentimes two or more
gamelan ensembles will be performing well within earshot, and sometimes
compete with each other in order to be heard. Likewise, the audience
members talk amongst themselves, get up and walk around, or even cheer
on the performance, which adds to the many layers of activity and the
liveliness typical of ramé.[51]
Stone carvings in Ubud.
Kaja
and kelod are the Balinese equivalents of North and South, which refer
to ones orientation between the island’s largest mountain Gunung Agung
(kaja), and the sea (kelod). In addition to spatial orientation, kaja
and kelod have the connotation of good and evil; gods and ancestors are
believed to live on the mountain whereas demons live in the sea.
Buildings such as temples and residential homes are spatially oriented
by having the most sacred spaces closest to the mountain and the unclean
places nearest to the sea.[52]
Most temples have an inner
courtyard and an outer courtyard which are arranged with the inner
courtyard furthest kaja. These spaces serve as performance venues since
most Balinese rituals are accompanied by any combination of music, dance
and drama. The performances that take place in the inner courtyard are
classified as wali, the most sacred rituals which are offerings
exclusively for the gods, while the outer courtyard is where bebali
ceremonies are held, which are intended for gods and people. Lastly,
performances meant solely for the entertainment of humans take place
outside the walls of the temple and are called bali-balihan. This
three-tiered system of classification was standardized in 1971 by a
committee of Balinese officials and artists in order to better protect
the sanctity of the oldest and most sacred Balinese rituals from being
performed for a paying audience.[53]
Tourism, Bali’s chief
industry, has provided the island with a foreign audience that is eager
to pay for entertainment, thus creating new performance opportunities
and more demand for performers. The impact of tourism is controversial
since before it became integrated into the economy, the Balinese
performing arts did not exist as a capitalist venture, and were not
performed for entertainment outside of their respective ritual context.
Since the 1930s sacred rituals such as the barong dance have been
performed both in their original contexts, as well as exclusively for
paying tourists. This has led to new versions of many of these
performances which have developed according to the preferences of
foreign audiences; some villages have a barong mask specifically for
non-ritual performances as well as an older mask which is only used for
sacred performances.
Balinese society continues to revolve around
each family's ancestral village, to which the cycle of life and
religion is closely tied.[55] Coercive aspects of traditional society,
such as customary law sanctions imposed by traditional authorities such
as village councils (including "kasepekang", or shunning) have risen in
importance as a consequence of the democratization and decentralization
of Indonesia since 1998.